(2013-09-28, 10:56 AM)Holy Diver link Wrote: The best thing you can do for yourself is stick to 16bit colour. If your gradients are 32 shades you'll have a much easier time than 256 shades, and the gradients will still be gradients after down converting to 16bit colour. All SOM textures are 16bit. Except in extreme cases like sky gradients it will look fine.You don't see 16bit color much outside PS1 which used it for palleted colors because it worked well with the hardware (5bits for RGB +1 bit for transparency). I can't picture why 32 RGB options would be easier than 256, but I'll try it and see.
Actually it sounds like the opacity was interfering here, switch to GIMP and I can help you alot more
the main thing to remember about your brushes is the opacity amount, pressure amount and the mode its used for - in some parts of the video I used the 'overlay' mode for my brush which blends whatever colour you are using into an existing colour, primarily I stick to blacks and whites as overlay colours. So far, I've been able to understand your GIMP directions and they seem to have similarly named equivalent in Paint Shop. Attached is a pic of the paint brush settings menu with the same-named opacity and overlay settings. With black/white set and low opacity, it seems to do well at lightening darkening colors without obliterating them- that's great for hilights and shadows-cool. I'll play around with some of the "blend modes" next time and see how it goes.
That final effect was achieved by using the curves feature in GIMP, I find it alot easier to work with rather than using levels to edit colours.
Nice, Paint Shop has the curve tool for colors and black/white point etc. In your video it seemed to take the whole image away from "pinkish" and more toward a natural skin tone. I'll give it a try when it comes up :)